No Dig with Karl & Maxine

Tomato plants will grow much stronger if we avoid three planting mistakes in May

May is the time to begin planting tomatoes – but there are three common mistakes gardeners need to avoid now or their crops may not produce any fruit at all.

Tomatoes are a popular crop due to how easy they are to grow, as long as gardeners avoid two common mistakes often made in May. 

However, I need to warn that now in early May tomatoes should only be planted in the greenhouse, and gardeners should avoid planting any outside until late May. 

This is because tomatoes hate too much temperature fluctuation and May nights can be chilly – especially if the days are warm.

Tomatoes can suffer frost damage and are at risk of disease if planted too early in May

Tomatoes should only be planted outside after the last frost has passed as they need a warm soil temperature of around 13C to 16C to grow properly. 

Planting them in gardens too early in May when the soil is too cold can slow down the growth of tomatoes, interfere with pollination which will result in poor quality fruit and even increase the risk of plant fungal diseases due to the damp weather.

However, when tomatoes are planted outside in late May there is little chance of them suffering from frost damage as the weather is much sunnier and warmer. 

Anyone getting an early start and planting tomatoes in the greenhouse should take care to add lots of soil with plenty of compost, and if planting in a pot they need to be at least 30 centimetres deep to help the roots grow. 

Plant them deeply, burying them right up to the bottom leaf as the buried section of stem will develop extra roots.

Tomatoes should only be planted in greenhouses in early May to ensure the soil is warm enough for the plant to grow.

Another crucial mistake I did was not deadheading the side-shoots of tomatoes as they grow, which causes the plant to spend more energy on its foliage rather than on fruit production. 

As the young plants grow they form shoots between the leaves and the stem and these are known as side-shoots. 

“They grow with extra vigour and although they do bear trusses of fruit, they take energy from the plant and reduce the overall harvest as well as making a cordon plant straggly. So they should be removed as they appear.”

We all need to do is pull off the side-shoots with their fingers when we spot them, final mistake I did was deadheading in the evening when it should be done early in the morning. 

The best time to do this is in the morning when the plant is turgid, simply breaking them off with finger and thumb. However, in the evening they will be limper and may tear the plant so should be cut off with a knife.” 

If these three simple planting mistakes are avoided, tomato crops will grow stronger in order to produce bigger and more bountiful fruit this summer.

In May, when there’s been a lot of new growth, cut out everything apart from developing stems that will create future structure, and your side shoots that should be carrying pinhead-sized grapes. Then reduce the latter to just two bunches per side shoot.

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Short of time, or trying to save water? Find out which plants to focus your efforts on during hot weather.

By knowing which plants to prioritise, and when to water, you can make the best use of your time by watering those that need it most.

Water every day or two

The top priorities for watering are seedlings, cuttings and young plants, plus anything that’s been recently planted. Other thirsty plants are those potted in a greenhouse or conservatory, such as tomatoes and cucumbers. Water the trunk of tree ferns daily to create humidity.

Plants to water:

• Tomatoes: when flowering and fruits swelling
• Cucumbers: when flowering and fruits swelling
• Garden peas: when pods swelling in dry weather
• Tree ferns: water the trunk daily
• Lobelia cardinalis: at home in swamps so requires moist soil

Water once a week

Next come plants with shallow root systems, including bedding plants and large, thin-leaved subtropical plants and ferns. Bog plants, moisture-loving perennials and many veg crops, like spinach, lettuce and celery will also suffer if left to dry out.

Plants to water:

• Brassicas: cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts
• Lettuce: especially when grown as a cut-and-come crop
• Spinach: prone to bolting. Crop can be ruined if it becomes dry
• Celery: needs plenty of moisture. Water twice a week if dry
• Hydrangeas: these water-lovers wilt quickly

Repairing the hoop frame with a coat of paint

Kohlrabi is an uncommon yet fairly easy and quick-growing vegetable that is mainly grown for its ball or globe-shaped stems, which have a mild flavour similar to broccoli or turnip. A member of the Brassica family, kohlrabi is quite decorative, with fleshy green or purple globes growing beneath green or purple leaves. You can cook kohlrabi or grate it raw into salads, and the leaves are edible, too – eat them steamed like spinach. Kohlrabi is a good source of dietary fibre, calcium, vitamin C and iron. Filling and high in protein, it can be used in recipes as an alternative to meat and also works well with Indian spices.

How to grow kohlrabi

Sow seeds under cover for an early crop or sow direct outside from spring and through summer. Make several, successional sowings to ensure a continual supply. Keep well watered and harvest from when stems are golf to tennis-ball size.

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Where to plant kohlrabi

Grow kohlrabi in a sunny site in light, fertile soil, kept moist and weed-free.

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When to plant kohlrabi

Sowing time depends on the variety and also whether seed is being sown direct outside or started off under cover before planting outdoors. Purple kohlrabi is slower growing but hardier than green varieties, so it’s best to sow faster-growing green kohlrabi from March to June for early harvests, then sow the hardier, purple type in summer.

Kohlrabi is fairly quick to mature so make several sowings through spring and summer to ensure a regular harvest from summer to autumn.

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How to plant kohlrabi

Sow seeds under cover in late winter and early spring. Kohlrabi seedlings dislike root disturbance, so sow seed into modular trays filled with moist, peat-free seed compost. Sow two seeds per module and, if both germinate, thin to leave one seedling. Grow on in a well-lit frost-free place and harden off to acclimatise to the outdoors before planting out in mid- to late-spring when all risk of frosts has passed. Take care to plant the seedlings with the top of the root ball level with the soil surface, as the swollen stems will develop from just above ground.

Outside, sow kohlrabi seed direct in moist soil in shallow drills 1.5cm deep, with rows spaced 30cm apart. Thin seedlings to space individual plants 15cm apart.

Keep kohlrabi watered during dry spells to avoid plants bolting (running to seed) before the stems are properly formed.

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When to harvest kohlrabi

Kohlrabi is ready to harvest within two to three months. Harvest when the stems have reached between golf and tennis ball size – any larger and they will become tough and woody. Cut them at the root and remove the oldest leaves to help keep the plant fresh. Kohlrabi is best eaten fresh but can be stored for a short time in the fridge in a perforated bag. Harvest until December, or before if you notice the leaves starting to yellow.

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Pests and diseases

Kohlrabi is a brassica, which means it’s subject to the same pests and diseases that commonly affect other brassicas like cabbage and broccoli. Protection and prevention are the best courses of action – most of the problems below can be prevented by using fine mesh netting.

• Weak, dying plants could be a symptom of cabbage root fly, which lays eggs around the roots of the plant. These hatch into maggot-like larvae that eat the roots
• Caterpillars on leaves are those of the large and small white butterflies, which can be removed and transferred to a sacrificial crop of nasturtiums
• Tiny holes in the leaves are caused by flea beetle, which cause no real damage to the plant
• Clouds of white flies are caused by whitefly. These mainly concentrate in the leaves so the swollen kohlrabi stem shouldn’t be affected
• Swollen and distorted roots and yellowing leaves are caused by clubroot. Avoid growing brassicas in the same soil for several years. Regularly adding lime to acidic soils can help to prevent this fungal disease taking hold

Advice on buying kohlrabi

• Buy green kohlrabi varieties for spring and early summer sowings, and purple varieties to sow in summer
• Specialist seed suppliers offer the widest range of kohlrabi varieties
• Young plants or plug plants may be available to buy in late spring

All you need to know about sowing, caring for and harvesting sweet peppers, in our Grow Guide.

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Sweet peppers are easy to grow yourself. While large bell peppers are most commonly grown, you can venture into new pepper-growing territory by choosing from a range of varieties.

All sweet peppers come from the species Capsicum annum, which is the same species as most commonly grown chillies. Ultimately, chillies and peppers are grown in the same way, so if you can grow chillies, you should have no problem growing pepper.

How to grow peppers

Grow peppers in moist but well-drained soil in a warm, sunny spot, ideally under cover such as in a greenhouse. Peppers need a long season to grow, so it’s best to sow seed as early as January in moist, peat-free multi-purpose compost, and keep in a heated propagator under a growing light, to prevent seedlings going leggy (sow seed in March if you don’t have a heated propagator). Pot on into individual pots when the first true leaves appear. Keep potting on if growing in pots or plant out into the greenhouse when night temperatures exceed 10ºC – ensure the soil or compost is free-draining. Feed weekly with a high potash fertiliser once plants have started flowering, and harvest peppers as and when they ripen.

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How to sow pepper seed

Sow pepper seed indoors as early as January if you have a heated propagator, or from March if you don’t. Transplant seedlings into individual 7.5cm pots, when the first true leaves appear. Eventually, plant into the ground or individually in 30cm pots of peat-free, multi-purpose compost. If growing your peppers outside, wait until all risk of frost has passed before moving them to their final growing positions.

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How to care for peppers

Once planted out, peppers require very little attention. Pinch out the growing tips when plants are about 20cm tall to encourage bushy growth. Tall varieties may need staking.

Water your pepper plants little and often. As soon as the first flowers appear, feed weekly with a high-potash liquid fertiliser such as tomato feed.

In hot weather, mist pepper plants to increase humidity and deter red spider mites.

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Harvesting peppers

Peppers are ready to pick from late summer. Pick them when they’re green or leave them to ripen (most varieties ripen to red or yellow), to develop a sweeter flavour. Keep feeding plants with a high potash fertiliser to promote fresh flower growth (and therefore more peppers).

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Preparing and cooking peppers

To prepare a sweet pepper, remove the seeds and stalk. Slice to eat raw in salads, or add to ratatouille and stir-fries.

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How to store peppers

Sweet peppers are best eaten fresh. They will store for a few days in the fridge. If you have a glut of peppers, you can use them in chutneys or soups and sauces, which can then be frozen.

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Growing peppers: problem solving

Protect young plants from slugs and snails. Watch out for blossom-end rot and grey mould. These are caused by erratic watering so make sure you water consistently. Red spider mite can be prevented by regular misting, while a soapy spray should despatch whitefly.

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Pepper varieties to try

• ‘Carnival Mix’ – large quantities of good-sized, succulent red, orange, yellow, green and purple-black fruits
• ‘Gypsy’ – produces lots of sweet, well-flavoured fruits that turn orange to red on maturity. Will fruit outdoors
• ‘Mohawk’ – a strong grower that produces plenty of small, sweet green fruits that ripen to orange
• ‘Sweet Banana’ – a banana-shaped variety with yellow fruit that matures to green. Gentle spicy flavour. Best grow in a greenhouse.

Find out how to grow your own spinach for leafy, healthy pickings, in this practical Grow Guide.

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Spinach is high in nutrients and is fast and easy to grow as a cut-and-come again ‘baby-leaf’ vegetable or for larger leaves.

It can be grown all year round if you choose the right varieties and works well in containers too. It tastes delicious when wilted in the pan or as young fresh leaves in a salad.

How to grow spinach

Grow spinach in moist but well-drained soil or compost in partial shade. Sow seeds in a shallow moist drill and cover lightly with soil. Sow spinach successionally every few weeks to ensure a continuous crop. Harvest baby leaves for use in salads or mature leaves to wilt for use in soups and stews.

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How to sow spinach seeds

Make a shallow drill in well-prepared, fertile soil in a sunny spot and sow your spinach seeds thinly, approximately 1.5cm deep. Cover seeds with soil and water well. If sowing in rows sow 40cm apart. Cover with cloches or protection if the weather is still cool. Sow a batch every three to four weeks for a regular supply through the growing season.

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How to care for spinach

Spinach thrives in fertile soil that doesn’t easily dry out. In hot weather, set up temporary shade for your spinach crop to stop the soil drying out and the crop bolting (running to seed).

After thinning your sowings to 15cm apart, the most important thing is to keep your spinach well watered. For sowings later in the year, protect your spinach seedlings with fleece or a cloche for a supply through the winter months.

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Growing spinach: problem solving

Protect young spinach seedlings from slugs, snails and birds. Spinach is also prone to downy mildew, which is worse in humid weather. Mildew-resistant varieties are available but the best method of prevention is good spacing around plants to help the air to circulate, and to target your watering at the base of the plants.

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How to harvest spinach

Spinach is ready to harvest 6-10 weeks after sowing. As a general rule, you can pick summer varieties from May to October and winter ones between October and April. But keep an eye on your crop as spinach usually grows quicker in warmer weather. Cutting back to just above the base of the plant can encourage more leaves to grow for a second crop.

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How to store spinach

Spinach is best eaten fresh when it’s highest in nutrients. But it can be frozen for later use in soups and omelettes – there’s no need to blanch the leaves.

Organic tip

Spinach is a good crop to grow in between beans, peas or sweetcorn if you only have a small growing space. But it’s important to move your spinach crops around your vegetable plot as the spores of downy mildew can remain in the soil and will re-infect your crop.

Spinach varieties to grow

• ‘Medania’ RHS AGM – a good, healthy spinach variety, producing lots of dark green leaves with a soft texture and good flavour whether eaten as a baby leaf or mature crop
• ‘Perpetual’ – a good variety that doesn’t bolt easily and will grow on drier soils. Good for summer, autumn and winter crops
• ‘Apollo’ – this variety gives a good yield with leaves that taste good either as a baby leaf crop or when mature. Good bolt-resistance and good in containers
• ‘Palco’ RHS AGM – a mildew-resistant variety that’s slow to bolt
• ‘Atlanta’ RHS AGM – a hardy, winter variety that produces a good crop of leaves

Find out how to grow your own delicious leeks, plus find leek varieties to try, in our Grow Guide.

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Leeks are a delicious vegetable with a long season and will provide food from August through the winter. The long, blanched stems, also known as shanks, can be eaten young and tender, or allowed to mature. Leeks are great in soups, steamed or stir-fried.

How to grow leeks

Sow seed in pots or modules of peat-free seed or multi-purpose compost in spring. Keep pots moist and plant out in summer, either individually, using a dibber, or in small clumps. Harvest leeks from autumn. Some varieties are hardy and can be harvested right through to spring.

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Growing leeks from seed

You can sow leek seeds directly into well prepared soil and thin them later. However, the more reliable method is to sow into pots and transplant seedlings when they are about 20cm high. It’s also possible to buy seedling leeks from nurseries or by mail order.

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Planting out leeks

Leeks need a sunny, sheltered site with well-drained, well prepared soil with plenty of added manure or fertiliser. To plant the traditional way, make a hole with a dibber, 20cm deep, drop a seedling in and water in. This method, called ‘puddling in’ will produce large single leeks with well-blanched stems. But you can also plant in small clumps.

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Tending leeks

Keep plants well watered, especially during dry spells and keep weed-free with regular hoeing or with a thick mulch – this will also help retain moisture.

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Harvesting leeks

Depending on which variety you’re growing, your leeks will be ready for picking from summer onwards. Use a fork to lift leeks singly or in clumps without disturbing neighbouring plants. Leeks can be left in the ground until you are ready to use them. Once harvested, they will store in the fridge or a cool larder for a couple of weeks.

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Preparation and uses

Leeks are a classic soup ingredient but they are also a delicious accompaniment to winter dishes such as roasts, stews and pies. To prepare leeks, they will need a thorough cleaning to remove the soil, and the outer leaves can be discarded.

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Growing leeks: problem solving

Leeks are prone to leek rust and to onion family diseases such as allium moth and allium leaf miner. These last two can weaken the plant and allow more damage from fungal and bacterial infections to take hold.

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Leek varieties to try

• Leek ‘Musselburgh’ – a reliable mid-season leek, with good flavour and texture. A good cropper, it is also very hardy and has good resistance to rust
• Leek ‘Pandora’ – an early variety, with long regular stems, this can be harvested from September to January.
• Leek ‘Lyon prizetaker’ – a heritage revival, with large thick stems that will last through the winter.
• Leek ‘Toledo’ – a reliable leek with long stems and dark leaves, that can be harvested from late November-late February. It has been awarded the prestigious RHS Award of Garden Merit.
• Leek ‘Sprintan F1’ – a very early cropping leek, ready to harvest from late August through to November, with good resistance to leek rust.

All you need to know about sowing, growing, harvesting and storing beetroot, in our expert Grow Guide.

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Growing beetroot (Beta vulgaris) is easy, giving delicious, round roots that can be boiled, roasted or pickled – and even grated into salads. The colourful young leaves can be picked fresh and used in salads, and mature leaves can be wilted and used like spinach. There’s a wide variety of beetroot to grow, with orange, yellow and pink cultivars to choose from.

How to grow beetroot

Sow beetroot seeds outdoors from mid-April to late June, into a shallow drill, 1cm deep. Space seeds 10cm apart, with 30cm between rows. Water the plants regularly and keep the area free from weeds. For the sweetest flavour, harvest beetroot when the roots are the size of a golf ball – larger roots can become woody.

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How to sow beetroot seed

When to sow beetroot depends on the equipment you have to hand. Outdoors, sow seeds direct in the soil from mid-April to late June, in a shallow drill, 1cm deep. Space seeds 10cm apart, with 30cm between rows.

To extend the beetroot season and ensure an early crop, select a variety known for its resistance to bolting, and sow under cloches or horticultural fleece from the beginning of March.

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Planting beetroot plugs

You can also buy beetroot plug plants, or sow seed into modular trays for transplanting to the growing site later on. Before planting plugs, leave them out during the day but take them in at night for a few days to help them acclimatise to outdoor temperatures, then prepare the soil as you would normally for planting.

Be careful when removing the plugs from their modules to avoid damaging the roots. Plant them at the same depth they were growing in the tray, at roughly 10cm intervals, and firm around them. Water in thoroughly and ensure the transplants do not dry out

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How to care for beetroot

Beetroot spacing depends on how large you want the roots to grow. For cricket-ball sized roots, thin out beetroot seedlings, leaving one plant roughly every 10cm. If you want to harvest beetroot when they are the size of a golf ball, keep the seedlings closer together. If you’re very careful and the weather conditions aren’t too hot and dry, you can replant the beetroot thinnings and water well until they re-establish. Alternatively, add the thinnings to salads.

Water beetroot plants regularly. This reduces the likelihood of the roots becoming woody or splitting. Hoe around the plants to keep the row free from weeds, taking care not to damage the swelling roots.

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How to harvest beetroot

Growing different varieties of beetroot allows you to enjoy the crop over a long period, without having to store it. Most beetroot is ready to harvest in eight to 10 weeks but longer, cylindrical varieties take nearer 20 weeks.

When harvesting beetroot, grasp the foliage firmly where it meets the top of the root and pull. Beetroot is better harvested too early rather than too late – younger roots are more tender. Pull the roots when they are the size of a cricket ball (or smaller if you want a sweeter taste) and store only those that are undamaged. After lifting, twist off the stems and foliage by hand.

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Pests and diseases

As they emerge from the soil, beetroot seedlings can be attacked by slugs and snails. Apply biological-control nematodes or grow the crop in a large container out of the reach of hungry molluscs. A barrier of crushed eggshells may reduce losses, as will night time patrols with a torch to catch slugs and snails. Birds can also be a problem, pulling seedlings out of the ground, so consider using fleece or netting to protect them until they are fully established.

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Cooking and eating beetroot

Wash beetroot gently in cold water, leaving on the long root and taking care not to pierce the skin. This prevents ‘bleeding’ during cooking. Beetroot can be boiled or steamed for one to two hours, depending on age, then drained and peeled. Alternatively, try it wrapped in foil or in a covered casserole dish with a little water and baked in the oven for around two hours.

Looking for inspiration on how to use your beetroot? Our friends at olive magazine have curated a delicious collection of beetroot recipes, including a colourful beetroot salad bursting with citrusy flavours and creamy goat’s cheese.

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How to store beetroot

Beetroot can be left in the ground and harvested as needed, but they can be susceptible to hard frosts. If necessary, cover beetroot beds with a thick layer of straw or cardboard, held in place with horticultural fleece or netting secured with bricks. In very cold regions, it’s best to store beetroot indoors. Store only undamaged beetroots. Place them in a box filled with relatively moist sand or compost and keep in a cool shed. The stored beetroot should last right through to March.

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Advice on buying beetroot

• There are many varieties of beetroot available, from globe-shaped roots to long roots, and dark roots to pale roots. Choose a selection and grow a wide range to crop at different times of the year
• Before buying, ensure you have the perfect growing conditions for beetroot to thrive, including moist but free-draining soil and good light levels
• Beetroot is commonly available to grow from seed, but you may find suppliers offering plug plants in spring

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Great beetroot varieties to grow

Beetroot ‘Boltardy’

Beetroot ‘Boltardy’ is one of the most popular beetroot varieties, with deep-red, globe-shaped roots that have a delicious sweet flavour. As its name suggests, ‘Boltardy’ is resistant to bolting, which means it can be sown earlier than many other varieties. For the earliest crops, sow undercover as soon as the soil warms up at the start of the year. Later crops can be lifted in late autumn and stored in sand for use during winter.

Beetroot ‘Chiogga’

Beetroot ‘Chiogga’ is a pretty variety with orange-pink skins and red and white rings on the flesh, which fade to pink when cooked. It is especially good in salads – slice in thin rings to show of its pretty flesh. The dark-green leaves and red stems can also be used in salads.

Beetroot ‘Kestrel’

Beetroot ‘Kestrel’ has smooth, globe-shaped roots with a high sugar content, and dark-red skin and flesh. It’s perfect for eating as baby beets or left to mature without going woody. It has good resistance to bolting.

Beetroot ‘Cylindra’

Beetroot ‘Cylindra’ has long, red, cylindrical roots, making it ideal for cutting into uniform slices. The roots have a rich, dark-red colour, sweet flavour and store well. Its easy slicing makes this a great choice for pickling.

Beetroot ‘Pablo’

Beetroot ‘Pablo’ is a fantastic beetroot, with smooth-skinned, round roots and dark-red skin. The roots are sweet and can be eaten raw or cooked. Its sweet flesh makes ‘Pablo’ perfect for eating grated and raw in salads. The roots can be used as baby beets but also left to mature, without danger of them becoming woody. The mature roots store well into winter.

Beetroot ‘Red Ace’

Beetroot ‘Red Ace’ has dark-red, round or oval roots with a good flavour. Its growth is strong and vigorous, making the plants more tolerant of dry, sandy soils than other varieties – it’s less likely to bolt. ‘Red Ace’ is particularly suitable for exhibiting.

Beetroot ‘Blankoma’

Beetroot ‘Blankoma’ is a white-rooted variety, perfect for gourmet gardeners or those looking for something a little different. Its roots are round or conical and earthy in flavour, with strong, tall, green tops that can be used like spinach.

Beetroot ‘Globe 2’

Beetroot Globe 2 is a popular round variety that is often grown for exhibiting. The roots are crisp and dark in colour, and have a very good flavour.

Heavy rain likely to cause low yields in Britain and other parts of Europe, with drought in Morocco hitting imports.

The UK faces food shortages and price rises as extreme weather linked to climate breakdown causes low yields on farms locally and abroad.

Record rainfall has meant farmers in many parts of the UK have been unable to plant crops such as potatoes, wheat and vegetables during the key spring season. Crops that have been planted are of poor quality, with some rotting in the ground.

The persistent wet weather has also meant a high mortality rate for lambs on the UK’s hills, while some dairy cows have been unable to be turned out on to grass, meaning they will produce less milk.

Agricultural groups have said the UK will be more reliant on imports, but similarly wet conditions in European countries such as France and Germany, as well as drought in Morocco, could mean there is less food to import. Economists have warned this could cause food inflation to rise, meaning higher prices at supermarkets.

Tom Bradshaw, the president of the National Farmers’ Union, said markets had “collapsed” as farmers fail to produce food in the punishing conditions. He said: “We’re going to be importing a lot more product this year.”

One major retailer said the wholesale price of potatoes was up 60% year on year as much of the crop had rotted in the ground.

Supplies of potatoes have also been affected by a 10% reduction in the area planted last year as farmers switched to less weather dependent and more financially secure crops. Industry insiders said they expected a further 5% fall in planting this year.

Jack Ward, chief executive of the British Growers Association, said: “There is a concern that we won’t ever have the volumes [of potatoes] we had in the past in the future.”

He said wholesale prices were too low for farmers to generate enough income to cope with high fuel, labour and machinery costs as well as the effects of climate breakdown. “We are not in a good position and it is 100% not sustainable.”

Supplies of carrots and parsnips, which are left in the ground and so also affected by sodden soils, are also much lower than usual, pushing up prices.

Martin Lines, the chief executive of Nature Friendly Farming Network, said: “The impact in the UK this year will significantly affect potatoes and the salad crop. Farmers are already facing delays in planting, with many fields in poor condition. If planting occurs at all, it will likely be late, potentially leading to a shortage of root vegetables and potatoes this coming winter.

“Some farmers have ceased planning for planting altogether, opting instead to put fields into fallow or switch to alternative crops. This could also result in shortages of wheat, barley and pulses as it’s currently unprofitable to grow these due to the lateness of the season and low forecasted prices.”

Guy Singh-Watson, the founder of the organic vegetable box company Riverford, said he had so far planted “virtually no veg”. “Some overgrown plants cannot wait any longer to go in the ground, and will have to be ditched.”

While retailers often turn to imports to fill gaps on shelves, farmers across Europe are enduring a similarly difficult start to the year, with difficulties developing winter crops and sowing spring crops.

France is experiencing the poorest start to its wheat-growing season since 2020 amid cold wet weather, while production of fruit and vegetables in Morocco is being affected by drought. Morocco’s second-largest reservoir has dried up, meaning irrigating crops will be difficult.

Amber Sawyer, an analyst at the Energy and Climate Intelligence Unit, said last year almost a third of the UK’s tomatoes, and more than two-thirds of its raspberries and brussels sprouts, came from Morocco.

As climate change worsens, the threat to our food supply chains – both at home and overseas – will grow,” Sawyer said.

All you need to know about growing delicious turnips, in our detailed Grow Guide.

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Turnips may not have a glamorous reputation, but small, young turnips and their green leafy tops are secretly gourmet vegetables.

They’re one of the less troublesome members of the Brassica family to grow, and can be picked as needed all through the winter months. They’re delicious simply cooked as a side vegetable, roasted or added to winter stews.

How to grow turnips

Sow turnip seed in early spring or late summer, into well-prepared, moist but well-drained soil. Water well during dry weather and thin plants depending on the size of turnip you’re looking for (up to 23cm apart if you want large turnips). Harvest when they’re young and small.

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How to sow turnip seed

Sow turnips at different times of year for a different type of turnip crop: early, maincrop and turnip tops.

How to grow turnips

For early turnips, sow seeds in February, directly into the soil. Make a drill approximately 1cm deep and sow in rows 30 cm apart. Protect these early sowings with a cloche. You can do a second sowing of early turnips from March to June.

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How to care for your turnips

If you’re growing turnips for their roots, thin seedlings out to 10-15 cm apart for the early, smaller roots. Or if you want to grow showstopper-sized turnips, leave a little more space – around 23 cm.

It’s important to keep your turnip crop well-watered, especially during dry weather. If plants dry out, you may end up with small, woody vegetables.

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Growing turnips: problem-solving

Turnips suffer from the same pests and diseases as other vegetables in the Brassica family.

Cabbage root fly feeds on the roots, causing stunted growth, wilting and death of the plant; it’s especially dangerous for seedlings. Mesh or horticultural fleece will help to prevent the flies getting to the roots.

Flea beetle makes small holes in leaves and causes damaged areas to turn brown. Growing plants under horticultural fleece and keeping the soil moist can help to prevent flea beetle. Also a good fertiliser will help, as strong plants are better able to cope with a pest.

Powdery mildew affects leaves, causing them to shrivel and is occurs in dry conditions, so keep plants well-watered.

Club root disease causes swelling and deformation of the roots, and the leaves will in turn, become yellow and wilt. There’s no real cure, other than to avoid growing turnips in soil that has previously been affected by club root.

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How to harvest turnips

Harvest turnips when they’re young and small – about the size of a golf-ball. If you’re growing larger, maincrop varieties, these can be harvested as needed; but the flavour’s less sweet and the flesh less tender the longer they stay in the ground.

Don’t forget, you can harvest and eat the leafy greens, too.

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How to store turnips

Turnips store well, which is why they used to be a winter staple. However, young turnips are best eaten fresh to savour the sweetness of the tender roots.

Organic tip

If you grow nasturtiums among your turnips, this can help to draw cabbage white butterflies away from your crops. Mint can also help to deter the flea beetle.

To help your turnips combat club root, you can improve drainage and make the soil more alkaline by adding lime, which club root virus won’t thrive in. 

Turnip varieties to grow

• ‘Purple Top Milan’ – a popular early variety that’s very fast growing. With white flat roots and attractive purple tops, it’s noted for its good flavour
• ‘Tokyo Cross’ RHS AGM – this is a fast-growing, early variety with small, white roots that are ready 35 days after sowing
• ‘Green Globe’ – a maincrop variety that’s also good for turnip tops. The roots are white and round
• ‘Snow Ball’ – A white, globe turnip with a sweet flavour and delicious turnip tops. This’ll give a steady supply of roots from early summer through to winter
• ‘Oasis’ RHS AGM – a summer or early, with virus-resistant white roots. It can be eaten raw or cooked

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Swede (Brassica napus) is a delicious and nutritious vegetable that can be grown at home. Grow them yourself for organic produce with better flavour than shop-bought swedes. Sown in spring, they’ll be ready to harvest for warming and hearty meals in the depths of winter.

The part of the vegetable usually eaten is the round root (actually an adapted stem). While not particularly tasty, the leaves can also be eaten. Swedes are delicious mashed with cream or glazed and roasted as an alternative to cooked ham. They are easy to grow as long as you ensure they do not dry out, are grown in a sunny position, and are protected from pests. The best way to grow swedes is by sowing them direct in the ground from mid-spring, once the soil is warm.

Is swede a turnip?

A swede is not a turnip, but instead is believed to be a cross between a turnip and a type of wild cabbage. The term ‘Swede’ is short for ‘Swedish turnip’, thought to have been created in Sweden in the 17th century. Americans call swedes rutabaga, from the Swedish word ‘rotabbagge’ meaning baggy root. A turnip is generally smaller than a swede, with white flesh. Swedes also have a sweeter and stronger, nutty flavour, and cope better with frost. This makes them useful crops to harvest late in the year once other vegetables have finished.

How to grow swedes

Sow seeds from late spring or early summer, depending on how warm it is where you live. The soil will need to be warm enough to help the seeds germinate, with all risk of frost passed. You may want to add compost or well-rotted manure a few months before, or a general fertiliser. If it’s too late to sow seeds, or you do not have the space, you can also buy small plug plants to put into the ground or pots. These are on sale in places like garden centres from late spring. Water often, especially during dry periods. Harvest from September onwards.

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Where to grow swedes

Grow swedes in a sunny spot in moist but free-draining soil. While it’s easier to care for swede plants in the ground, those with limited space can use pots as an alternative. Use large pots and grow them outside. For the best results make sure the swedes don’t dry out, and harvest when they are still young.

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How to sow swede seeds

Grow swedes from seed for a wider range of varieties to choose from. They can be sown directly outdoors or started off indoors to get them growing earlier in the year.

1. Get the ground ready for sowing by weeding and raking, removing any large stones. Gently tread over the soil to firm it. Walk over it penguin-like with toes pointing outwards but heels kept together. Make small and gentle steps to firm in the soil, covering the area.
2. Ensure your ground is level. If sowing in a straight line, use something like the handle of a rake to press down lightly into the ground. This will create a dip (known as a drill) to place your seeds in. Before you sow your seeds, push in reusable labels at each end of your line to allow you to locate your swedes later. Sticks can also be used as placeholders, until you have labels ready.
3. Water the drill gently and sow your seeds about 5cm apart. Have some of the seeds ready in the palm of one hand and use the other hand to pick up and drop the small seeds, one or two at a time, into your drill. You’ll later remove seedlings to create a space of about 20cm between plants.
4. Pinch the soil back over the seeds and firm it back down with your hands. Leave a space of about 30cm between your line of seeds and next crops, unless you are growing quick crops like salad. Quick crops can be sown, grown and harvested before the space is needed by main crops, making the most of your space.
5. Thin out weaker seedlings as they grow, or those too close together. You want to end up with plants about 20cm apart if growing to full size. Unwanted swede seedlings can be added to the compost heap, or washed and added to salads.

Sowing indoors

1. Fill your tray or pot with peat-free multi-purpose compost and firm in. Leave a gap of about 2cm for extra compost to go onto of your seeds and water to sit and soak in. For best results, sow into modular trays. This will make it easier to lift and transplant seedings, and reduces any root disturbance.
2. Sow your seeds thinly onto the compost and then cover with more compost. If possible, sieve this compost first to remove any large pieces. The seeds should sit about 2cm deep under the compost.
3. Place the trays or pots in a sink of water or place on the ground outside and water from above with a watering can. Make sure you have a rose attachment on your watering can to soften the water coming out. Also make sure to turn the rose upwards, this will further soften the force of the water hitting your seeds and compost. To further ensure you don’t disturb your seeds, start by watering the ground next to the pot or tray. Then sway the watering can back and forth over the tray, providing an even watering.
4. Let the pots or trays drain out and then place on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse. Speed up germination by covering the pots or trays with a propagator lid or reused clear plastic. This will increase the warmth and humidity, but do keep an eye if in a warm greenhouse. If on a windowsill, encourage straight growth by turning the tray or pot every few days.
5. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, remove the unwanted ones first. These will be smaller and thinner – you want to keep your strongest candidates growing. Harden off the plants before planting outdoors. You can either move the plants into a cold frame or put them outside during warm days, bringing them back in at night. Do this for about a week for best results. If you are removing a propagator lid, do this gradually over a few days to avoid shocking your seedlings. Plant the seedlings out before the main root (tap root) develops. This way you will avoid disturbing future growth.

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How to care for swedes

To care for swedes until they are ready to harvest, remove any weeds by hand or hoe gently around the plant. Trim back badly damaged leaves, but don’t remove too many as the plant needs these to develop well. Keep the soil moist by watering regularly, otherwise you could end up with woody, bitter-tasting swedes. This will also help prevent problems such as powdery mildew.

Consider using grey water from your washing up to reduce mains water usage. You can also install drip irrigation at ground level, on a timer, to minimise water loss. Keep an eye out for slugs and snails, especially while plants are at the seedling stage. Carry out night time checks, especially after wet weather to remove slugs and snails.

Mulch around the plants to help keep soil moist, prevent weeds and slowly feed your crop. Use compost or well-rotted manure, spreading it about 5cm deep. Keep the mulch away from the base of the plants to prevent rotting. For best results, mulch after heavy rain. Mulching in dry weather can prevent water getting to the plants as it gets locked into the mulch on top. If plants do get too dry they may ‘bolt’ (produce flowers and seeds), which will make the root taste bitter. If they do bolt, consider leaving them in the ground. The flowers will provide food for bees and other insects.

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How to harvest swedes

Harvest swedes as baby veg or leave them to grow and crop from autumn onwards. If you want to grow large swedes, look out for varieties that are more resistant to becoming bitter and woody. To enjoy as baby veg, especially if grown in pots, harvest once the roots are about 5-15cm in diameter. Otherwise they can stay in the ground until needed, coping with most frost. Harvest by gently pushing a garden fork into the soil and lifting the whole plant out. Remove the soil and bring into the house or store in pots of compost in a frost-free location such as a shed.

The root vegetables will store best left in the ground until the end of the year, so harvest only as required.

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How to cook swedes

Use swedes to create a range of dishes such as mash, neeps, soups and gnocchi. For Christmas, you can even glaze and roast a swede to serve instead of a ham. Once washed, peeled and chopped, freeze any extra swede chunks left over or to keep for later. Place in a bag or container once prepared in peeled chunks to keep for a later date.

How to prepare for cooking or freezing

1. Cut off the thin root, top with leaves, and wash each swede
2. Chop in half with a large knife, and use a potato peeler to remove the skin
3. Place the flat side of each half down on a chopping board and chop into similar size chunks

On Burns night (25 January) impress friends and family with your own homemade accompaniment to haggis. Cut into similarly sized chunks, boil and then roast with boiled potatoes. Mash together and add cream and butter to taste.

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Pests and diseases

If the roots have split, or have a woody and bitter taste, it’s likely that the vegetables dried out in the ground. Regular watering in dry periods will help prevent this. Signs of a whitish bloom on the leaves are also a consequence of drying out, as it makes the plant more susceptible to powdery mildew, a fungal infection.

Holes in the leaves can often be a result of cabbage root fly and cabbage white caterpillars. Protect your crops with horticultural netting to help reduce this problem. You can also help repel pests like cabbage white fly naturally by growing onions or nasturtiums next to them. This is known as companion planting. Cloches and fleeces will also help protect seedlings from snails and slugs. They can also protect harvests left in the ground from strong or prolonged frosts.

Advice on buying swede

• Swedes are usually only available to buy from seed although some suppliers sell swede plug plants
• Make sure you have the right conditions for growing swede before buying, including moisture-retentive soil and good light levels
• Chose a variety resistant to bitterness if you want to grow large swedes for winter cropping

Swede varieties to try

Swede ‘Brora’ – this non-bitter variety has creamy flesh and stores well.

Swede ‘Tweed’ – British bred, this variety has an attractive purple top and creamy flesh, and does well in poor soil.

Swede ‘Gowrie’ – best for disease resistance, this purple variety has creamy flesh and is winter hardy.

Garlic needs little care. Water regularly in spring and early summer, but reduce once you see the foliage turning yellow – this is a sign that the bulbs are reaching maturity. Weed between the plants to reduce the competition for water and nutrients. This is best done by hand, as hoeing could damage the developing bulbs. Remove any flowers, or ‘scapes’ the plants produce – you can eat these in stir-fries.

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Growing garlic: problem solving

Garlic is generally pest free and is only affected by a few problems.

Onion white rot

Onion white rot is hard to detect until it’s too late – the first sign that anything is wrong is usually yellowing, wilting foliage but this is usually around harvest time, when you’d expect the leaves to be dying back anyway. When you dig up the plant, you’ll notice a white fluffy fungus on the base of the bulb, along with tiny black growths. In severe cases, the bulb will be black and rotten.

Onion white rot is a soil-borne disease, so there is no control and the problem can persist for years. Avoid spreading the problem around the garden on boots and tools, as the disease can affect the whole allium family, including onions and leeks. Dig up all of the affected plants and bin or burn them – do not add them to the compost heap. You may be able to salvage some of your crop to eat, but it won’t store well. In future, grow garlic in containers, in fresh soil that does not come from the garden.

Leek rust

Garlic can be affected by leek rust, a fungal infection that is more common in wet weather. There is no cure. Orange pustules appear on the leaves in summer, which then begin to die back. The bulbs are perfectly safe to eat but it’s a good idea to harvest affected plants immediately, to prevent the disease spreading, and to eat them straightaway. Dispose of the rest of the plant material (bin or burn it, don’t add to the compost heap) and avoid growing garlic, leeks and onions in the same place for three years. Choose a variety that has some resistance to rust, and space plants out to reduce humidity.

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All you need to know about growing Brussels sprouts

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Brussels sprouts are a popular vegetable in the cabbage (Brassica) family, and a staple part of the traditional Christmas lunch. Named after their popularity in Belgium, they are an excellent source of vitamins C and D, along with folic acid and dietary fibre. The vegetable also contains anti-cancer compounds called glucosinolates, which makes them a ‘super food’.

Brussels sprouts are slow-growing, and can take up to 31 weeks to produce a crop. However, they crop from autumn through to spring, providing a valuable source of food in winter, when little else is available.

How to grow Brussels sprouts

Sow seeds in spring and plant out into fertile soil after all risk of frost has passed. Water regularly, feed with an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser and stake in autumn to prevent wind rock. Harvest the sprouts as and when they are produced.

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Where to grow Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts do best in moist but well-drained, fertile soil, ideally which has been enhanced with well-rotted manure or compost. Grow in full sun for best results.

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How to plant Brussels sprouts

For a successive harvest, sow seeds every fortnight from March to May, in pots or modular seed trays – one seed per module or small pot – and keep them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame. After around four weeks (or when seedlings are large enough to handle), transplant them into individual pots of peat-free compost. Then, from May onwards, when plants are 10-15cm tall, harden them off before planting out into well-prepared soil enriched with well-rotted horse manure. Space plants 60cm apart with 75cm between rows. Firm the soil around the plants thoroughly, as Brussels sprouts do best in firm soil. Water well and continue to water throughout the growing season, particularly in periods of drought. If cabbage root fly is a problem in your area, fix cabbage collars around the base of the stems.

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How to care for Brussels sprouts

Feed fortnightly with an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser. Prevent weeds from competing with the plants by hoeing regularly. Stake plants in autumn and earth up around the roots to prevent them rocking in high winds. Remove any yellowing leaves from the plants as they can harbour disease.

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Growing Brussels sprouts: pests and diseases

Blueish leaves that wilt in sunlight: are likely to be cabbage root fly. Look out for white maggots around the roots. Use cabbage collars around the base of the stems to prevent further attack.

Caterpillars eating the leaves: these are most likely the larvae of the large and small white butterfly (known as cabbage white butterflies). Gently transfer caterpillars to a sacrificial crop of nasturtiums, which are in the same family and will be readily eaten by both butterfly species.

Stunted growth: this is most likely caused by clubroot, a fungal disease that thrives in acid soil and can remain in the soil for several years, reinfecting newly planted plants. Adding ground limestone or calcified seaweed can help prevent its spread, however if you do find clubroot in your garden or allotment it’s best to avoid growing brassicas for up to nine years.

Blown sprouts: these are open sprouts as opposed to the tight ‘buttons’ you expect. Causes include poor and infirm soil.

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How to harvest Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts ripen from the base of the stalk, so harvest them from the bottom as and when they are ready to pick. You can also cut the whole stalk as this will ensure the sprouts will keep for longer.

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Advice on buying Brussels sprouts

• There’s a huge variety of Brussels sprouts to choose from, with early varieties ready from August and later varieties cropping until March
• Ensure you have the right growing conditions for the plants, and remember they need rich, fertile soil to grow well

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Varieties of Brussels sprout to grow

Brussels Sprout ‘Brodie’ F1 Hybrid – the supermarket Brussels sprout, with no bitterness. Height x Spread: 75cm x 50cm

Brussels Sprout ‘Brilliant’ F1 Hybrid – firm buttons cropping from early autumn. Height x Spread: 75cm x 50cm

Brussels Sprout ‘Bedford Fillbasket’ – bears large, firm sprouts with a good flavour. Height x Spread: 75cm x 50cm

All you need to know about growing broccoli.

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Broccoli is easy to grow and yields quickly, providing you with a delicious, nutritious crop of blue-green heads, which can be harvested from summer to autumn, depending on when you sowed the seed. Sprouting broccolis are hardy and can can be harvested from March, further extending the growing season.

Broccoli is a popular vegetable, thanks to its vitamin content and its versatility in the kitchen. It can be used in anything from salads to curries, as well as steamed and served as a side dish.

How to grow broccoli

Sow seeds in modules of peat-free compost, every six weeks from spring to autumn. Thin seedlings and plant out when they’re large enough to handle. Grow in well-prepared, fertile alkaline soil, and keep well watered.

As with all brassicas, consider growing broccoli in a mesh cage to protect from cabbage white caterpillars. Harvest when the heads look ready to eat. Start with the central stem and then move on to harvest the side shoots.

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How to sow broccoli seed

If you have a greenhouse, you can start sowing broccoli seeds in modules or small pots, from late winter. Otherwise sow from early spring. For a steady crop across the season, sow seeds every six weeks.

Sow two seeds per pot or module. Thin to the stronger one when the seedlings have appeared and keep watering and feeding until the plants have four or five leaves. By this stage your broccoli plants are ready to plant out.

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How to plant out broccoli

Broccoli does best in fertile alkaline soil, in full sun. Add slow-release fertiliser or well-rotted compost or manure to prepare the beds. Plant broccoli 30cm apart and 45cm between rows, so there’s plenty of space for side shoots to develop. Firm in well. Water regularly and feed with a high nitrogen fertiliser every two weeks.

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Harvesting broccoli plants

Depending on the type of broccoli you’re growing, you can start cutting spears about 12 weeks after sowing. Cut the main, central head, first, which will trigger the development of side shoots. Then continue to cut side shoots regularly over the next four to six weeks.

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Growing broccoli plants: problem solving

Broccoli is prone to the many problems that commonly affect plants in the brassica family.

Birds can demolish crops by eating young plants, so it’s a good idea to net crops.

The caterpillars of large and small white butterflies can cause damage, making holes in the leaves and eating into the heart of the plant. You can pick caterpillars off by hand or use insect-proof netting. However, you may find that wasps take most of the caterpillars from the plants to feed their young, and the plants recover after the caterpillars have completed their lifecycle. You can also grow nasturtiums as a ‘catch crop’, transferring caterpillars from your brassicas onto the nasturtium leaves.

Club root is a soil-borne disease occurring mostly in the warmer months. It infects the roots, causing them to become swollen, affecting the growth of the broccoli plants above ground. Improving drainage can help, as can adding lime to make the soil more alkaline. If your plants are affected, don’t grow brassica plants.

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Storing broccoli

Broccoli is best used as soon after picking as possible, to make the most of the vitamins and minerals. It can be blanched and frozen.

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Organic tip

Use the traditional methods of crop rotation to get the most out of broccoli plants. Plant out young broccoli seedlings in the beds where you were previously growing beans. The soil will be much improved by the nitrogen fixing properties of the legume family and this is great for ensuring healthy leaf growth in plants in the Brassica family.

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Broccoli varieties to grow

• Broccoli ‘Green Magic’ RHS AGM – an early maturing variety with a good flavour and rust resistance
• ‘Brokali Apollo’ – a cross between broccoli and Chinese kale, with tasty, tender stems similar to those of sprouting broccoli
• ‘Early White Sprouting’ – white-sprouting broccoli has a slightly milder flavour than purple or green
• ‘Early Purple Sprouting’ – purple-sprouting broccoli is tasty and nutritious and the leaves are also edible
• ‘Belstar’ RHS AGM – with small, domed heads, good flavour and colour, this will produce lots of side shoots when main head has been cut

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Sowing kale seeds

Seeds can be sown in modules, indoors, or outdoors in warmer weather and transplanted 6-8 weeks later.

Looking after kale plants

Seedlings should be planted firmly into moist but well-drained soil, in full sun to partial shade.

How to grow sea kale

Plants will benefit from adding well-composted manure to the soil before planting. And a good mulch is also helpful to keep plants moist and weed free. Remove any flower shoots to encourage the production of plenty of healthy leaves.

Harvesting kale

Kale can be grown as a cut-and-come-again crop. Young tender leaves can be harvested for salads. If left to mature for winter greens, plants can be left in the ground through the winter and picked as required for soups and stews.

Storing kale

Kale leaves are best used when freshly picked. However, they can be blanched and then frozen to store for later use.

Preparation and uses of kale

Delicious steamed or fried, kale leaves are loaded with antioxidants and vitamins.

Looking for inspiration on how to use your crop? Our friends at olive have curated a delicious collection of kale recipes, including a cheesy kale and gnocchi parmesan bake.

Kale: problem solving

Another good reason for growing kale is that it’s a relatively pest-free member of the Brassica family. The biggest problem comes from greedy birds, so use bird scarers and net your crops.

Organic tip

If left to flower, kale plants can be a vital source of nectar and pollen for early bees.

Kale varieties to try

• ‘Cavolo Nero’ – a handsome Italian kale, with long, plume-like leaves that are very ornamental in winter, particularly when dusted with frost
• ‘Black Tuscany’ or ‘Nero di Toscana’ – has green, crinkled, strap-like leaves. It is good for winter or spring greens, and can be grown as an ornamental plant
• ‘Ragged Jack’ or ‘Russian Red’ – an heirloom variety, with frilly, red-tinged leaves and purple-red stems; it will easily self-seed
• ‘Scarlet Curled’ – an ornamental, dwarf, curled variety with violet-green leaves that turn violet-red after frost
• ‘Dwarf Green Curled’ – a highly ornamental, dwarf variety with curly, dark green leaves, as its name suggests

All you need to know about growing cauliflower.

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Cauliflowers have a reputation for being tricky to grow, but with the right growing conditions and care, you can successfully grow cauliflower to rival any you can buy in the shops. What’s more, you’ll find a huge variety to grow, including the alien-looking green romanesco cauliflower.

How to grow cauliflower

Plant cauliflowers in rich, heavy soil with plenty of moisture. Prepare the soil well and add plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted horse manure or compost. Firm them in well to prevent cabbage root fly laying eggs in the soil around the stem, and use a root collar if necessary. Feed fortnightly with nitrogen-rich liquid food and harvest between three and five months after sowing.

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Growing cauliflower from seed

Cauliflowers can be sown direct in a seedbed although results tend to be better from sowings made in seed trays and then planted out later. Sow from February under glass or March direct. You can also make later sowings under glass from October, and overwinter the plants for an early harvest the following year.

To sow direct, sow thinly, 2cm deep in a well-prepared bed, free of weeds. Thin seedlings to 60cm.

To sow under glass, fill a multi-celled tray with moist, peat-free seed or multi-purpose compost and sow seeds 2cm deep. Thin seedlings to one per cell and wait until all risk of frost has passed before gradually acclimatising plants to outside conditions before planting out.

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How to plant out cauliflowers

Cauliflowers do best in a sunny spot with rich, moist, alkaline soil incorporated with plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted horse manure or garden compost. If you think your soil may be acidic then do a pH test and add lime if necessary – not only will the plants grow better but it’s also thought this can prevent the fungal disease club root. The best month to plant cauliflower is either May, June or July.

Plant out young plants you have grown from seed or mail-ordered plug plants that have been potted on and acclimatised to outdoor growing conditions.

Plant deeply, spacing summer and autumn cropping varieties at 60cm, and winter varieties at 75cm. Reduced spacings of 30-45cm apart will result in ‘mini’ cauliflowers suitable for one person. You can expect to grow one cauliflower head per plant.

Ensure the soil is moist before planting – dry soil could lead to a check in growth which can cause cauliflowers to bolt or bear deformed heads. Firm soil around the plants and water thoroughly. Add a collar to prevent cabbage fly if needed.

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How to care for cauliflowers

Water every 10 days to two weeks, more frequently in dry weather. Hoe around the base of plants to reduce competition from weeds. Once the plants are established, start feeding with a high nitrogen feeder to boost growth and aid the formation of curds.

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Growing cauliflowers: problem solving

Protect plants from pigeons and the caterpillars of small and large white butterflies, known as ‘cabbage whites’. Cover plants with a fine mesh netting to deter caterpillars, and string up some old CDs to deter birds. If you do find eggs or caterpillars on your cauliflower plants, transfer them to nasturtium leaves, which they also eat. This will enable them to continue to complete their lifecycle without harming your cauliflower plants.

Clubroot is a fungal disease, affecting the roots of cauliflowers and other brassicas, including Brussels sprouts, cabbages, turnip and swede. Roots become swollen and distorted and overall growth can be stunted. It’s difficult to completely remove from soil, but there are plenty of ways to prevent it.

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How to harvest cauliflowers

Cauliflowers typically take three to five months to mature, depending on when you sowed the seed. Bear in mind that it can be tricky to know when to harvest your cauliflower at first – check the seed packet for the ideal harvesting size (this can vary by variety) and ensure there’s a good, firm head – you’ll have missed the harvesting window once the head has started to separate. White varieties should be harvested before the head turns yellow.

To harvest cauliflower, cut the stem with a knife or good pair of secateurs, taking the whole head and a few of the leaves beneath it.

Advice on buying cauliflower

• Make sure you have the right conditions for growing cauliflower, including a rich, alkaline and moist soil
• If buying plug plants, pot them on individually and water well before planting

Cauliflower varieties to try

Cauliflower ‘All Year Round’ – popular for summer and autumn harvesting. Compact habit with white, tight heads.

Cauliflower ‘Walcheren Winter Pilgrim’ – winter hardy, bearing creamy white, compact heads.

Cauliflower ‘Depurple’ – unusual variety with purple heads and a sweet taste.

Cauliflower Romanesco precoce – whirling green spirals high in antioxidants.